St Regis Saadiyat Island, Friday Brunch

For our final review of the year, we have saved the very best for last! Recently bestowed with our coveted "Best Friday Brunch of 2015" award, it is safe to say that there are very few superlatives that will be left unpenned by the end of this article. So please allow us to set the scene and start with one of the easiest statements we have written all year… as it stands, "St Regis at Saadiyat Island has the best brunch in the UAE!"

 

Now that part is out of the way, imagine yourself embarking upon an epicurean expedition across all 7 continents (in first class), taking in amongst other things a variety of cuisines with innovative presentation & preparation methods, including signature dish and beverage pairings from the hotel's head chefs and mixologists. Now set this across 2,000 square feet of prime real estate including Olea All day dining, 55& 5th steakhouse and the sprawling outdoor terrace which plays host to yet more beverage stations, the dulcet tones of Naz Holand & Band and the ethereal panorama of the azure-blue ocean set against powdery white-gold sand, and you can begin to envisage what our humble words will attempt to convey over the next few pages.

 

The Food

 

We were truly made to feel like VIP's as Executive Sous Chef Kushan Perera escorted us on a personal tour of the grand expanse, explaining the signature dishes & pairing concepts along the way as we followed in a state of noiseless, open-mouthed astonishment…attempting to make as many mental notes as we could and figuring out where on earth we were going to begin. As it turns out, we were not receiving particularly special attention and these personal tours by one of the Head Chefs are a common feature of the Saadiyat brunch, where it seems going the extra mile is commonplace.

 

Fortunately, we managed to locate a sign as we entered pointing in various directions towards stations including a BBQ station, Carving station, Butcher station, Oyster station, a Seafood Market and a Foie Gras station amongst others so we made a rather foolhardy plan to sample a dish or two from each and re-assess the situation after that. We started with the cold section of the seafood market which was decorated nautically with seaweed and fishing nets and contained a bumper catch of Mussels, Razor Clams, Half shelled Mud Crab, and King Crab legs. The hot dishes featured entrées such as steamed Pomfret with tomato & olive oil, grilled Salmon on a bed of parsnip puree with caramelized shallots, a Seafood Paella, crisp oyster Po Boys with an Asian Slaw and an entire salt crusted Sea Bream which was sat imperiously atop a slate carving board, ready to be dissected by the waiting chefs and served as I had it, with a Squid Ink Beurre Blanc and Citrus Salsa.

 

We then moved onto the meaty delights of the Butcher and Poultry stations and took our pick from a selection of gourmet hot dogs, a savoury waffle benedict that came served with 13 hour braised Beef Cheeks, Braised Veal shanks on a bed of Saffron Risotto, miniature Burgers and Calzones, Roasted Quail with French style Peas, and my personal favourite…Rotisserie Duck cooked below a row of golden Pineapples so that the sweet juices drizzle down onto the duck whilst it cooks. This is then plated with Baby Pak Choi and an oriental sauce to give a whole new dimension to a classic marriage of flavours.

 

We had to circumnavigate the impressive looking Sushi, Cold Cuts and Anti-pasto counters with only a fleeting taste of fresh Tuna, Salmon and Scallops from the live Cerviche mixologist as we were on a mission to re-visit the second room before that ever-familiar and frustrating feeling of fullness began to creep up on us.

 

55&5th, which we are told is the address of the original St. Regis in New York and the second restaurant to puff its feathers during the St Regis brunch, is certainly smaller in size when compared to Olea, but in terms of what it brings to the table, the power it packs in each of its punches are equally as weighty. We started with the unmistakable aroma of Roasted meat, and in particular a Wagyu Brisket of Beef which was brined for 5 days and then slow cooked overnight with Cherry woodchips to produce a deep- glazed, smoky flavor and a texture so soft it put up little resistance to the edge of my fork. Sat next to it was the Saddle of Welsh Lamb, stuffed with Foie Gras & Chicken Mousseline and the homely accompaniments of Roasted Root Vegetables, Dauphinoise Potatoes and a selection of Veal and Rosemary Jus, or Béarnaise sauce. The punchy steakhouse continued to weigh in with decadent displays of gastronomic ostentation such as the live Foie Gras station where the chef prepared the delicacy both cold, and lightly pan seared with a fig and crumb sprinkle. There were also Tsarkaya Oysters on display, which are proclaimed as the "Pearl of the Tsars and food of the Kings since time immemorial." Having devoured our fair share of oysters over the years in various types, shapes and quality, we can attest to this statement as their full white flesh, firmness and slight acidity lent themselves to be enjoyed either "au naturale", as an Oyster Bloody Mary, or with any number of dressings available such as a Pomegranate version of the classic Mignonette, a Fennel & Yuzu Puree, and a spicy Ponzu dressing to name but a few.

 

Now we must admit, the BBQ section is a near must at every other brunch we visit, and certainly the "secret" BBQ station found just outside of 55&5th on the terrace is worthy of a mention, not least for the juicy Herb Marinated Lamb Chops, Beef Steaks and Cajun Drumsticks that we somehow managed to inhale into our systems through sheer will alone. However, ever since our tour with Chef…..we had simultaneously been feeling as though we were on a date with one person, while secretly longing for another all along, such was the strength of the force pulling us back towards that solitary sign which was placed purposely in the centre of the restaurant, pointing upwards towards the "Cheese Room."

 

As we raced up the staircase, we were astonished by the sheer number of wine bottles lining our passage and as we entered the private dining room with its centre piece wine glass-chandelier, exposed brick walls and the waiting sommelier who is armed with enough Cheese, Wine and Port pairings for you to have your own Cheese & Wine evening that could last the entirety of the 3 hour brunch itself, we pondered our first negative critique of the day…there is simply nowhere near enough time to enjoy everything this brunch has to offer in one 3 hour sitting. If St Regis management could see their way to extending their offering by one, maybe 2 hours, it would be hugely appreciated. (One can only ask!)

 

Anyway, we digress. Back to the 25+ varieties of cheeses separated into English on one side, and French on the other, with the latter coming from world renowned master affineur (maturer) Herve Mons. Along with the Head Sommelier Steve Fernandes and Executive Chef Malcolm Webster who was on had to point out his personal favourites, each cheese comes along with its own tag, with details of it's particular type of milk, flavor and texture to aid diners further. Our personal favourites were the creamy, aromatic and floral Burwash Rose, and the potted blue Stilton's mixed with either Port or Somerset Cider Brandy. On our way back to our table, we had a quick pit stop at the bar at the foot of the stairs where we found an elaborate display of edible Martini's including a Brumble with Duck Pastrami, an Orange Bloody Mary with Smoked Salmon, and our personal favourite…the Tiramisu Martini.

Onto dessert. The perennial battle of wills when it comes to our experiences of brunches. And as you will be aware it is not a course that we traditionally have much of an affinity with, so it was as much of a surprise to us that the inner workings of the brain of head pastry chef Christophe Sapy were as exciting to us as when Charlie found that golden ticket to Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. In summary, they have created a colourful conglomeration of giant lollipops, macaroon pyramids, a dry ice swamp where you can fish for your own desserts, magic potions, DIY BBQ S'mores and a multi-layered, multi-directional pink chocolate fountain that kids of all ages just cannot keep away from.

 

The gold & silver leaf on the individual mini desserts such as the 64% Valroha Chocolate Mousse cube with Orange Marmalade, the light Madagascan Vanilla Cream log with wild Berries and dehydrated Ivory Chocolate, the White Chocolate buttons adorned with St Regis' logo and the roasted Coconut Mousse with Lime-Strawberry Jelly and Coconut Dacquiose are all excellent examples of how finite details are executed with panache, a sense of fun and just a tiny hint of superciliousness. In short…Dessert is a show stopper.

 

The Drink

 

The beverage pairings which match the food offerings range from the selection of wines and ports in the cheese loft (a Cuilleron Viognier Les vignes d'a cote, 2012, a Casa Cabernet Sauvignon by Valle del Rapel and a Taylors 10 year old Tawny Port) as well as a wide selection of Whites (Concha y Toro Frontera Sauvignon Blanc 2013) Reds (Santa Julia Malbec and Ibericos Torres Rioja) and ofcourse Louis Roederer Champagne for those wanting to stretch to the Diamond package. When you're in a place this fabulous…why not darling?

 

And If like us, you like to take your beverages with a pinch of salt, a hint of lime and a sense of adventure, why not go on (yet another) world tour and visit any one of 9 other bars dedicated to serving your every need. From the Wine Terrace to the Sangria station and the Beer bar, we sipped on Makers Mark and Hennessy at the BBQ Bar, purred inquisitively at the sheer size of the barrels coming away from the Tropical Bar (Pina Colada, Saadiyat Surprise and Boro Bora Punch) and looked on wistfully at the sultry selections in the Manhattan Lounge. (Sherry Manhattan, Black Old Fashioned and Smokey & Spiced Negroni)

 

The Other Stuff

 

With so much going on with the food and drink, you could nearly be forgiven for missing out on everything else that goes on…nearly. A main feature of the St Regis brunch is of course St Regis itself…situated on the picturesque Saadiyat Island, you will never tire of the iconic beachside vistas and a perfect way to finish off your day is to take an apres-brunch stroll down to Turquoise for sundowners. Stepping back to brunch time for just a moment and aside from catering to the big kids inside all of us with the playground dessert section, the brunch does actually feature its own separate "kids room" where you can drop them off at the start of brunch safe in the knowledge that they will be looked after, entertained and fed well wish dishes such as Mini Chicken Pie with creamy mash, Fish Goujons and Mini Pizza's.

Another feature of the brunch is the band, and as is the case with everything else on display at the Hotel, is truly stunning. The Souled Out Band is made up by husband and wife duo

 

South African singer; Naz Holland, and British saxophonist; Dave Holland, who perform a series of sultry, smooth and jazzy numbers from the 70's to present day, This includes a discography of everything from Earth, Wind and Fire, to Bruno Mars which float along as a perfect accompaniment to the gushing of the waves in the distance. For those of you with an "I recognize her from somewhere," look in your eye, Naz was the winner of the first Coca Cola Popstars in South Africa, and had a successful career as an artist and session singer before moving to the UAE.

 

So with World Class Food & Beverage Pairings, a World Class setting and World Class entertainment…we openly throw down the gauntlet to any brunch in the UAE…be warned…this is the standard at which brunches will now be measured.

 

The Saadiyat Brunch experience has the choice of the following packages:

• Silk Package at AED 300 inclusive of non -alcoholic beverages

• Pearl Package at AED 395 inclusive of house beverages

• Diamond Package at AED 495 inclusive of food and bubbly

• Children's Package at AED 150 per child from 6 till 12 years old - kids under 5 years eats for free

   

To Book Call (971) (2) 498 8443/8762 or click here