Maya Mexican Kitchen, by Richard Sandoval
They had us at "Hello" on this one. The ‘Mas Mas' or "More More" brunch as it is so aptly named, is the brainchild of celebrity chef Richard Sandoval. He wants to take "brunch to a whole new level" in his offering of an unlimited sharing menu of Mexican favorites with a modern twist AND all day pool and beach access at Le Meridian Beach Resort & Spa included in the price.
So, equipped with swimsuits and a nippy change of clothes (for me at least) we arrived at 10 am on the dot and were shown to our poolside loungers to assimilate ourselves with the holidaymakers and play the pre-brunch game of "spot the other eager brunchers.
THE FOOD
Three hours of swimming/lounging by the pool drinking cocktails will turn even the most disciplined of appetites into a hefty rage of malnourishment by 1pm. This would normally cause us to overlook the quality of the first thing that passed our lips after this mini-fast, however, this is impossible here with the quality of the pre-starter alone signaling the start of a breathtaking culinary experience. The signature Totopos Con Salsa (crispy corn tortillas with a mild and a spicy salsa as well as guacamole) were a satisfying and salty snack that did the job of stifling the pangs in our stomachs and preparing our taste buds for more to come all at the same time. The beauty of this concept is that whilst the plates are quite petite, there are enough of them dotted around your table (we were on a long table of 20+ guests on the outdoor terrace) and the waiters brought them back with precision-like regularity until they spotted that moment of "I've almost had enough of this" in one of the group and instantly the next course would be on its way.
The actual starters include a range of small sharing plates which are expertly expedited and explained by our waiters, including Aguachile de Camarones (Marinated citrus shrimp ceviche, roasted jalapeños, avocado & coriander), Ensalada de Pollo (BBQ chicken with tortilla strips, black beans, mixed lettuce, roasted corn and a cilantro ranch dressing) and Ensalada de Tomate (Cherry Tomatoes, watermelon and manchego cheese with a green apple & papaya vinaigrette). All of the dishes were bursting with flavor and had the individual strength to stand up as a starter in their own right, but sang together as a group in perfect light harmony.
From this point in, the waiters had managed to blur the lines between the clear pre-starter and what you could describe as a continuous conveyor belt of delicious mains and a revivification of those tasty morsels you thought you had seen the last of 20 minutes ago. The awe factor of the sizzling fajita skillet containing Ribeye Steak & Adobo Marinated Chicken accompanied by Roasted capsicum, caramelized onions , sour cream, guacamole, salsa and fresh warm flour tortillas were a perfect contrast to the more dense home-made Huarache, Quesadillas, and (More) signature nachos.
The undoubted stars of the show, however, arrive in the form of the deliciously dichotomous duo from the charcoal grill. Adobo Marinated Lamb Chops served with roast potatoes and mint salsa and Grilled Caribbean Lobster Tails served with achiote, butter and sweetcorn. Hot, succulent, sweet, meaty, cooked to perfection and excruciatingly filling (especially if you eat as many as we did.)
For Desserts, a selection of traditional Mexican platters are served, including filled crepes with caramelized milk, watermelon and other fruit slices, and Ice Cream with Sherberts.
THE DRINK
For once, we were more taken with the food selection rather than the drinks. Not to say that you will be disappointed by these either as they adopt the "Mas Mas" approach with just as much Mexican gusto. Sparkling wine ,red or white wines (Sauvignon Blanc - Expression villard, Chile) Beers (Sol) and spirits are free flowing, and a nice touch is the ability to order jugs of Margarita ,Sangria or Mojito to your table to continue the sharing theme.
THE ATMOSPHEREDeeply wrapped inside the confines of the hotel grounds and set amongst the grassy planes, the tennis courts, the numerous pools and the beach has both the effect of adding a sheltered all-inclusive style protection, and at the same time a sense of segregation from the surrounding holiday makers who are blissfully unaware of your last 3 hours of food and booze powered decadence. Not a party brunch, nor is its intention to be, however, with a large enough group, the party seamlessly moves into the outdoor bar terrace where the DJ steadily ups the tempo from laid back Ibiza beats to a slightly more pumping latin inspired soundtrack from 4-8pm, all the while being mindful of the surrounding guests who are mostly the same crowd we had left on the sun loungers at the pool this morning.
OVERALL
A firm favourite for foodies, and for those who want to make the event of a Friday Brunch a bit more than just dragging yourself out of bed at 12.30pm and making the first course by the skin of your teeth (not mentioning any names…ahem.) The unique pool and sharing courses concept is a fun twist, and the sharing plates from the prawn ceviche to the lamb chops live at the forefront of the memory, long after you have departed the hotel. Richard Sandoval and his team have succeeded in taking brunch to a new level, and definitely leave you wanting "Mas Mas!!!"