Feast, The Sheraton Grand

  Dubai has gained a reputation as a bastion of food innovation, most notably within the Brunch scene. The evolution of the standard brunch now takes many different shapes and forms, with competition rife on various levels of gastronomic experimentation, albeit mainly at the lower to mid-levels (Yes I realise the irony of using the term lower to mid-level to describe ANY establishment in Dubai). Most new institutions cleverly steer clear of the untouchable upper category where the heavyweights such as Traiteur, Al Qasr and Imperium et al sit alone in their sovereignty, until The Sheraton Grand Hotel opened its doors late last year and recently launched their Feast Brunch. They clearly did not receive the memo and they are here to ruffle some serious royal feathers.   THE FOOD   So with a name like Feast, these guys are seriously backing their credentials and we came hungry and expectant. As soon as we crossed the frontier into the restaurant, we were transported into a scene from Harry Potter, with a whomping willow tree and what can only be described as a Hogwarts worthy magical display of delicately positioned sweets and treats to our right. We later discovered that this plant still life display was in fact a Chocolate Mille Feuille on an Edible Garden, hiding within it a molten chocolate fountain. When the chef's poetic description of the construction revealed that the construction contained Chocolate Feuilletage (puff pastry), Passion Fluid Gel, Chocolate Caviar, Manjari Foam, Ivory Cremoso, Edible Pistachio Grass, Chocolate Pebbles and Raspberry Powder we knew that these guys meant business.   We wandered through the mezzanine of indoor seating and cooking stations, thunderstruck by the array of cooking stations, chefs and staff busying themselves ahead of service and made our way to our seats on the outdoor terrace, overlooking the Trade Centre roundabout and the unwitting traffic devotees of Sheikh Zayed Road.   We were then treated to an educational tour of the whole Feast by Chef Wong. I will warn you now that what is described forthwith does not do the sight, sound, smell and taste of what is mentioned the justice they deserve…however, I will try my level best.   From the cold picnic station, there were small starter sized portions of Wild mushroom & confit duck lolly pops with cinnamon and cherry coated gel, inventive Prawn cocktails, Deconstructed caprese salad shooters, Thai beef salads, Spicy shrimp & pomelo salads and Potted Crudités with edible soil and a basil aioli. There was also a place for your more staple cold mezze portions such as Hummus, moutablal, baba ghanoush, garlic labneh, fatoush, mixed olives, assorted pickles & mixed salad.   The Next Stop was the Arabic Chef's station, featuring Fasoulla belahm (Lamb cooked with white beans, onion, garlic, coriander & tomato sauce), Vegetable Moussaka, Saffron Rice, and an amazing White Fish dish, the name of which I wish I knew so that I could tattoo it onto my arm inside a love heart.   The Tandoor Station features one of Feasts (Many I say at this point) signature dishes. The sticky, sweet and tender Pomegranate & Tamarind Chicken. We were also treated to Lamb Shish kebab, Chicken adraki ginger, Lamb Bhuna, Green peas cooked in fenugreek and cashew nut gravy, Dal palak and a Fish biryani.   The Asian station took a unique twist on what is considered "archetypal" Asian cuisine, focusing instead on a journey through Malaysian street food. A selection of steamed Dim Sum (vegetable, chicken, sui mai prawn & chicken, prawn har kao & vegetable dumplings) Roti Canai with curry sauce, and another Feast signature dish of Roasted duck congee with sous vide poached egg which is a dish typically eaten for breakfast. There was also a Batu Maung Satay on Skewers, Beef Rendang, Laksa Rice Noodles in Fish Soup, Nasi Lemak (Rice Cooked in Coconut Milk), Hokkien Mee (Rice Noodles in Spicy Soup), Stir-Fried Noodles and an Ice Kacang (Corn-Bean Frozen Dessert served with coconut Malibu)   The Fruits of the Sea station spouted an impressive display of King Crabs legs and poached Tiger Prawns, Oysters Shucked to order and served 3 ways ( old fashioned, lemon gel & ponzu with wasabi tobiko) and Ceviche's of Salmon, Tuna or Scallop cured the way you like with chili, onion, ginger, coriander & lime juice   Before our stomachs could hit the proverbial wall, we had to sample the delights of the final hot station, and the restaurants fabled signature dish of "Lamb 26." 24 hour cooked lamb shoulder, slow roasted lamb saddle and sous vide lamb loin served with 23 unique accompaniments on an impressive glass pyramid and paired Red Wines (or non-alcoholic equivalent) to accentuate each unique bite.   Other selections included a Cauliflower soup, a Seafood chowder served in a shallow skillet with a poached egg, corn salsa and dill cream which is kept perfectly heated at 67 degrees. A traditional Beef Wellington, Angus mini sliders, Sirloin Steaks, Salmon fillets, Sea bream, Foie Gras and Fresh Mussels all cooked to order also lay plentifully across the countertop with an abundance of trimmings that would put any of your mothers Sunday roasts to shame. Roast Potatoes, Gratin Dauphinose, Honey roasted Parsnips & Carrots, Creamed cabbage, Steamed Green Vegetables and Yorkshire puddings to name but a few.   Finally (at last we hear you say…) we were told to save room for desserts and we were again flabbergasted by the array on offer. There was a self-service Donut Station with various toppings and flavours, a candy station to rival Willy Wonka's factory, various cakes, slices and individual mini pots (Cherry Velvet, Chocolate Banana, White Chocolate Cranberry), Chocolate Shots on Ice, an Ice Cream station, and an Anti-griddle and Lollipop Station where you can create your own lollipop by freezing the ingredients around a stick on the frozen surface of the griddle. It was like freezing objects in liquid nitrogen. My inner child/science geek was delighted!   THE DRINK  

The approach at Feast is that Friday Brunch should not just be an experience, but also an education. It takes the pairing of food with wines very seriously, with suggestion boards and strategically placed self-service bottles close to the dishes they accompany. (It was so thoughtful of them to place a bottle port next to the selection of cheeses.) They do however have the sense to make this "education" amusing, rather than like a trip back to conformity school. The innovative Edible Martini station instantly catches the eye with its volcanoes of dry ice adding a sense of theatre to what are tasty, yet extremely potent cocktails. They include: Citrus Vodka with lemon & dill - served with Smoked Salmon & Cucumber, Vodka with brambles & mint served with Pastrami Duck & Compressed Apple, and Pepper Vodka with chili, lemongrass & ginger - served with Tiger Prawn & Mango.

  Another novel twist are the Infused beers of Heineken Equator Chili Chop and the Heineken Lima Lemon Grass, which you have the ability to sip alongside your selection of regular Beers, Wines(a welcome glass of Moet was a nice touch), Spirits and a selection of colourful shots available from the bar.   OVERALL   Being in its infancy, the atmosphere at Feast is as yet a little undecided. The background music was low enough not to cause a distraction, but felt at times could have been slightly louder in order to avoid the business like feel of the hotel lobby. There is no doubt that the food is the star of the show here, and so it should be.   A Feast for all of the senses. Franklin D. Roosevelt said that "It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something." If you are not afraid to leave the comfort zone of the tried and tested "favorites" and try something new, your reward will be a gastronomic experience, incomparable to any other in the region. Listening to Chef Webster and Chef Wong, as well as one of the most knowledgeable Sommeliers we have come across in all of our travels is like listening to a musician waxing lyrical about the first song they ever penned. Intense passion, supreme knowledge and clinical execution.   The décor and atmosphere, whilst superbly elegant erred on the conservative side rather than ostentatious, which given its proximity to the World Trade Centre should appeal to most business travelers. If you want to impress large groups, or even just that special person without being overtly romantic…bring your appetite, your sense of adventure, and get your "Feast" on.  

• Brunch including soft drinks AED 395
• Brunch including house beverages AED 495
• Brunch including Moët & Chandon AED 595